Sudden Exposure - Discover the Benefits of Exposed Zips and How to Install Them

Exposed Chunkier Silver Toothed Zip with Slightly Larger Pull

Wedding dresses often feature delicate buttons, lace, or hidden zippers to keep the look seamless and elegant. But what if the zipper itself became a striking part of the design? Exposed zips in the backs of wedding dresses add a modern, edgy touch that can transform a traditional dress into a statement piece. This post explores why exposed zips deserve a place in bridal fashion and offers practical tips on how to create one yourself.

Contrasting Pink Exposed Zip as seen on Threads Website

Exposed zips are no longer just functional; they have become a fashion feature. Here’s why they stand out:

• Visual Interest

Instead of hiding the zipper, an exposed zip adds texture and contrast. It can be sleek metal, colourful, or embellished with crystals or beads, making the fastening a focal point.

• Modern Style

Brides looking for a contemporary or minimalist look appreciate the clean lines and industrial feel of an exposed zipper. It breaks away from traditional closures and adds personality.

• Ease of Use

Zippers are quicker and easier to fasten than buttons or corset ties. An exposed zip also allows for a sturdy closure that can support heavier fabrics or detailed embellishments.

• Customisation

You can choose zippers in different colours, finishes, and sizes to complement or contrast with your dress fabric. This flexibility lets you tailor the look to your style.

How to Make an Exposed Zip a Feature on Your Dress

If you’re designing or altering a wedding dress, here are steps to make an exposed zipper a standout detail:

1. Select the Right Zipper

Choose a zipper that suits your dress fabric and style:

• Material: Metal zippers offer a bold look, while plastic or nylon zippers can be painted or dyed.

• Colour: Silver, gold, black, or even coloured zippers can create different effects.

• Size: Larger teeth zippers are more visible and dramatic; smaller teeth zippers are subtle but still exposed.

  
  

2. Position the Zipper Thoughtfully

The back centre is the most common place for an exposed zip, but side backs or even front zippers can work depending on the dress design. Ensure the zipper length matches the opening and that the fabric allows for smooth sewing.

3. Prepare the Dress Fabric

• Stabilise the fabric where the zipper will be sewn to prevent puckering.

• Finish the edges of the fabric to avoid fraying since the zipper will be visible.

  
  

4. Sew the Zipper with Precision

• Use a zipper foot on your sewing machine for close stitching.

• Sew slowly and carefully to keep the zipper aligned.

• Topstitch on either side of the zipper to secure it and enhance the exposed look.

  
  

5. Add Decorative Touches

To elevate the zipper further, consider:

• Sewing on beads or crystals along the zipper tape.

• Using a contrasting fabric under the zipper for a pop of colour.

• Adding a decorative pull tab that matches your jewellery or theme.

  
  

Ghertie's Exploration into Zip Exposure with a Contrasting Black Zip on Deep Blue Fitted Dress

Tips for DIY Brides and Seamstresses

If you want to add an exposed zipper to your wedding dress yourself or with the help of a seamstress, keep these tips in mind:

• Practice on scrap fabric first to get comfortable with sewing exposed zippers.

• Choose a high-quality zipper to avoid snags or breaks on your big day.

• If your dress fabric is delicate, use lightweight interfacing to support the zipper area. I often apply lightweight interfacing to newly cut facing (See below).

• Consider the dress silhouette; an exposed zipper works well on fitted gowns where it can follow the body’s lines.

• Test the zipper several times after sewing to ensure smooth operation.

  
  

Examples of Exposed Zipper Styles in Wedding Dresses

• A sleek satin gown with a silver metal zipper running from the neckline to the hem creates a bold vertical line.

• A lace dress with a black zipper adds contrast and modern flair.

• A minimalist crepe dress with a hidden zipper replaced by a visible, colour-matched zipper tape for subtle texture.

  
  

Dress Fitting - Long Line Exposed Centre Back Zipper

Adding an exposed zip can turn a simple wedding dress into a unique piece that reflects your style and personality.

Installing Your Exposed Zip

So you're going to bite the bullet and expose that decorative zip to the world - read on. Generally an exposed zip is applied where there is no seam. If there is a seam I will sew the seam up first and trim the seam allowance by about half (if not a tiny bit more). The length at which the CB seam allowance is trimmed is to about 10 mm before the bottom of the zip. Then I will act as if there wasn't a seam there in the first place.

Step 1. Cutting & Applying Facing

Step 1. Measuring, Cutting Out & Applying Facing

Cut a facing 7.5 cm wide and 5 cm longer than zip from lining or contrasting facing fabric. If your dress fabric is thin or you feel it's a little unstable you may want to lightly interface the facing. The interfacing may protect facing edges from fraying but you can also zig-zag, overlock or satin stitch if so desired. Using sharp tailors chalk and a ruler, mark opening down Centre Back of facing, which will be the length of zip plus 15 mm. Right sides together, place facing onto garment, matching centre back seams, pin then tack facing into place.

Step 2. Slashing Opening

Step 2a. In order to create a smooth continuation of seam stitching line - at pivot point/cross, keep needle in fabric, raise presser foot, turn fabric, lower presser foot and continue sewing.

Step 2b. Cutting down centre back line and into corners.

It's important to note that the opening for the zip should be wide enough to expose the zip's coil or its chain, or even a bit of the tape if so desired. Therefore, you need to stitch about 3 mm either side of centre line (this may differ depending on teeth/coil/chain size - and/or personal preference). And across bottom at end of centre back line. With very sharp tailors chalk I usually mark in the stitch line - make sure the line is thin and accurate so that it is easy to follow when stitching. I often mark in a dot or cross where needle needs to be left in fabric before fabric is turned to continue stitching towards neckline - see Diagram 2a. Leave threads long so that with a needle they can be pulled through facing and knotted on garment side with ease. When stitching I usually start from the centre back at the bottom of the centre back line - stitch to pivot point or cross (usually about 3 - 4 stitches) then turn fabric. Repeat this procedure for the opposite side. Once stitching is finished and long threads have been knotted, cut centre back line to within 10 mm of bottom line; cut into corners - see Diagram 2b.

Step 3. Turning Facing

Step 3, Turning Facing

Turn facing to inside of garment and press using a pressing cloth - being very careful not to over press. Make sure that none of the facings show on the right side of garment. Position/centre zip under opening with bottom stop of zip at bottom end of opening - pin if preferred. Slip tack zip to garment along folds on each side and at bottom of zip - see Diagram 3.

Step 4. Securing Bottom of Zip Tapes and Facing

Step 4. Securing Bottom of Zip Tapes and Facing

Lift bottom of garment to expose ends of zip tape and the triangle of garment and facing fabric at bottom of opening. Switch to zipper foot. To secure, stitch across base of triangle to secure it to zip tapes and facing.

Step 5. Folding Back and Finishing Off

Step 5. Folding Back & Finishing Off

Fold back one side of garment until the original stitching line is visible. Remember work from bottom to top - stitch garment to the zip tape along this stitching line. Repeat for other side of zip. Remove slip tacks that held zip in position. Right sides up - gently press using a pressing cloth.