INSIDE OUT - Seam Finishing

The vast majority of bespoke ordered dresses in the studio are lined. It's only when we require that elusive, diaphanous drape of a grecian number do we forgo a lining as it could interrupt the bias flow of said dress. However, several of our 'VJ Seamsters' have in the past stated that they'd like to make a dress without a lining which has a professional finish when they take it off. That is, they want it to look good even when it's Inside Out.

The type of seam finish you apply depends on the fabric you use and how often the garment will be worn, washed and/or dry cleaned, therefore there are 4 points to consider.

(i) Type and weight of fabric

Some synthetic and bonded fabrics don't fray, so just require a very neat trim - a straight edge would be sufficient. For heavier fabrics which don't overly fray a straight trim is genuinely enough.

(ii) If the fabric frays - excessively

You really do need to finish your seams in some way if your fabric frays excessively - such as loose weaves and some types of chiffon and organza. These fabrics can fray so much that they could fray to the seam line very quickly - compromising the very structure of your garment.

(iii) Garment wear and tear

For one off garments such as a wedding dress wear and tear will begin to slide down the priority list as a wedding dress will be for one occasion only or if it becomes an occasion wear dress it won't be worn that often. On the other hand if you intend to put the dress in the washing machine - even if it's on a delicate setting, then it will be subject to more wear and tear due to the movement of the washing machine cycle, especially in comparison to a dry clean.

(iv) Will the seams be seen

And as discussed earlier, it is a really nice feeling to see your hand made dress hanging on a coat hanger with beautiful, resplendent finished seams on the inside, exposed for all to see.

With regard to finishing seams quickly and efficiently - our first suggestion is 'Pinking Shears'. Get yourself a pair if you want a very quick way to finish the inside of a dress that looks neat, finished and decorative. Let's have a look at a few seam finishing techniques using Pinking Shears.

Pinking Shears

Pinked

Cut along edge of seam allowances with pinking shears. Try not to fully open pinking shears nor close all the way when cutting. Depending on thickness of fabric - if it's light weight then cut two layers at once then press seam open. Pinking is attractive and finishes seams neatly, but it well not prevent fraying if the fabric has a tendency to do so.

Pinked & Stitched

Sew a row of stitching about 6 mm from raw edge of seam. Pink: cut this edge with pinking shears, being very careful not to cut into stitching. This technique is good when the fabric frays a little and just needs securing that bit more with a top stitch.

Beyond Pinking Shears, our second port of call is the overlocker or serger. That's if you've got the time, effort, money or indeed inclination and if the fabric which you are using isn't too thick and you haven't got lots of crazy curved seams. For an 'ideas' type discussion take a look at this blog: SERGE TO THE STARS for a little more information. Otherwise, let's take a look at seam finishing that does not involve the usage of an overlocker.

Turned & Stitched or The Clean Finish

Simply turn under the edge of seam by 3 mm - 6 mm. Turning should be wider for fabrics which fray easily. Press turning into place - try not to iron as this can stretch fabric. Edge stitch turning into place being careful not to pull on seam allowance - once again, this avoids stretching. This seam finish is great for a lightweight tailored dress or jacket in medium weight fabric.

Hand Overcast

This is definitely moving beyond bespoke and more couture in finish if done neatly. The Hand Cast Seam Finish looks great in contrasting thread. This method comes to the fore when a machine finish is impractical - around a highly curved seam for example. Or a hand finish is quite simply preferred. Using single thread self coloured or contrasting, make overcast stitches at edge of each seam allowance slightly more than 3 mm in depth and spaced by about 6 mm apart. Be careful not to pull thread too tightly. If you really want to extend yourself you could use a blanket stitch.

Zigzagged

Zigzagged - Satin Stitch

I think this is one of the quickest and most effective seam finishes - aside from overlocking. It can be great on a decorative level especially if you reduce stitch length - creating a satin stitch. However this does use a lot of thread. This technique can be used on knits but you have to be careful not to stretch the seam edge. So set stitch for a medium width and short length - about 1.5 mm per 25 mm - even finer for a satin stitch. Stitch near but not on edge of seam allowance. Trim close to stitching - being very careful not to clip into stitching.

Machine Over-Edged

This edge finish is done with the over-edge or blind-stitch setting(s) on your machine - you'll have to look for them as each model/make of machine is different. Overall

the point of the zig-zag should fall on the edge of the fabric. It's important to remember to position fabric to right of needle for an over-edge stitch; to the left of fabric for a blind-stitch. Being an alternative to the regular zig-zag seam finish it's up to you which one you use: in consideration of the 4 points at the beginning of this blog.

Bias Bound

Slightly more time consuming but so much more impressive than previous seam finishes is the Bias Bound Finish - I think this looks great in lightweight jackets and tops - whose fabric does not overly fray. Preferably buy ready made bias binding, self or contrasting in colour, to speed up the process. If not, cut bias strips from garment or lining fabric. With wider side of tape underneath, pin then tack (if preferred) bias binding to seam. Stitch close to edge of top fold, making sure to catch underneath fold in stitching.

Net Bound

Cut 15 - 20 mm wide strips (or even 25 mm if you hate things being fiddly) of nylon net or I prefer a slightly stiffer tulle. Remember never choose a hard, scratchy net especially if it's in an unlined dress because you don't want the net irritating your skin. This also can be said for an unlined jacket - if you're wearing a sleeveless dress that is. Fold net binding lengthways. Fold it so that one half is slightly wider than the other - and wrap it around edges of seam allowance with longer half underneath - pin then tack (if preferred) into place. From top, edgestitch narrow half of binding, catching wider half underneath in the stitching. This method of finishing seams is more subtle than binding, and finishes delicate fabrics such as lightweight velvet and chiffon excellently.

French Seam

This is one of my favourites but it is a little time consuming - remember you'll be sewing the same seam twice. It's the classic seam finish for sheer fabrics. I like to see it on thin cheese cloths, fine silks and thin, almost transparent cottons. It generally looks at its best if the finished width of the seam is about 6 mm or less - reducing evident bulk and visibility. Firstly (as in diagram A) pin and/or clip (and if preferred tack) wrong sides of fabric together. Stitch 10 mm from edge (1A: Stitched Line). Trim seam allowance to 3 mm. Press seam open. Fold right sides together (as in diagram B), with Stitched Line exactly on fold, press again - flat. Stitch Seam (stitching) Line - it will be 5 mm from fold (as in diagram B). Press seam to one side.

Mock French Seam

The Mock French Seam can be used in place of The French Seam. It works particularly well on curves: where a French Seam might be tricky. However a different seam finish may be a better option if the curve is too acute. Right sides together - pin, tack then stitch on seam line (seam allowance should be at least 15 mm). Trim seam allowance if necessary to 15 mm. Turn in seam edges by 6 mm and press - do not iron - you don't want these edges to stretch. Stitch these folded edges together. Press seam to one side.

Over-edge Seams

These are great for fabrics which may be tricky in the sense that they are sheer or perhaps have 'soft' bulk underneath the machine foot and above the feed dog of the machine - such as fake fur.

The Hairline Seam

This is great for the collars, cuffs and facings of a sheer fabric dress. The seam is stitched with a narrow zigzag. Then the seam allowance is trimmed very close to the stitching so that the seam allowance doesn't show through. If the the fabric is very lightweight you may have to add thin piping (see diagram A) to prevent it from being eaten by the machine's feed-dog and to give it a bit more weight so that a collar for example 'sits' nicely. Therefore, set machine to narrow, short zigzag. Unwind cord so that it's loose and there's no tension. Lead cord under zigzag (you may have to consult your machine's instruction booklet and you may have to change the machine's sewing foot) and stitch along seam-line covering cord in process. In the past I've tacked the cord into place before stitching. Trim seam allowance close to stitching (see diagram B). Turn pattern through to right side (diagram C). Work seam to edge and press.

Zigzag Seam

This seam is similar to the hairline but it is wider. We mainly use this seam finish on fake/fun fur where the stitch disappears into the fabric. So firstly, trim seam allowance to 3 mm for short pile and 6 mm for long pile. Remember, cut through fabric not through fur. With sharp tailor's chalk, mark notches on newly cut seam edges. Pin/clip (I prefer to clip - using mini bull dog clips), tack seam together. Using a plain zigzag: medium width and short length for short pile; wide width and regular length for longer pile. Once stitched, from right side, with a pin, gently pull free any free hairs caught in the stitching. Finger press seam: use thumb and forefinger to smooth out seam over to one side.

Double Stitched Seams

Double stitched seams are especially good for knits and jersey where edges have a tendency to curl. Firstly, on seam line, stitch with a straight stitch or a straight stretch stitch. Stitch a second row 3 mm from the first row of stitching using a straight stitch (A); a blind stitch (B); or an over edge stitch (C). Trim seam allowances as close as possible to stitching without clipping threads. Press seam to one side.

Over-Edge Stitch Seam

These type of stitches are often dependent on the model and make of your machine, however they generally involve a stitch which combines both a straight stretch stitch and a zigzag stitch. You should aim to have your straight stitch on the seam line and the zigzag goes slightly over the seam edge - all in one action. I often secure seams by tacking as the mechanical movement caused by some of these stitch programs can be frenetic. They are suitable for knit and stretch fabrics. For best results start with a 6 mm seam allowance - you may need to trim down from your original seam allowance. Tack/baste right sides together then stitch seam.

So...these are a few ways to finish your seams. To be honest, in the studio, we tend to use the same seam finishes again and again. In order of preference: overlocker, zigzag (satin-stitch) and french seam. As stated earlier when we do things bespoke they are usually lined.

A last thought, before embarking on a new seam finish I would practice first to make sure that you are comfortable with the procedure - this is particularly true for any fabrics with a bit of stretch and you intend to use a seam edge technique which involves using a stitch specifically for stretch.

What is your favourite seam edge finish technique? Leave comments below - because we'd love to hear your experiences and/or dilemmas.