Measure Me - 1st step - how to make a wedding dress

Before buying the right size pattern you need to take your body measurements...correctly, or as correctly as possible. Here are a few tips to get your measuring 'groove on', so you can (i) measure yourself properly in order to (ii) use the correct size pattern, which (iii) specifies a specific amount of ease so that you can (iv) get the best fit for your personal style.

In the studio we often tell customers to come in their slim fitting yoga gear when they've got a first fitting. This enables us to get the tape measure close to the body with a layer, which mimics a layer of underwear. The first three areas we measure are the principal ones: (a) bust; (b) waist and (c) hips.

To measure these areas correctly, firstly, make sure that your tape measure measures accurately: it doesn't stretch. Secondly position tape measure around fullest part of the Bust: around widest part of back, under arms and across full bust line. If possible, for the more 'tricky-to-get-to' measurements, get someone to help you.

Next move onto your Waist. Firstly find your natural waist by tying a piece of string loosely around your middle and letting it roll to its natural position. Position tape measure into natural indentation of abdomen - and measure.

Then, with legs together, measure the fullest part of the Hips: positioning tape measure securely but not tightly around fullest part - glutes at the rear, and over front of lower abdomen. This is usually 18-23 cm (7-9 inches) below waist. Make a note of the distance down from waist.

After taking these 3 key measurements, at the studio, we usually move onto the rest from the Body Measurement Chart (see below). Some are relevant, others not so much so. We take them all, just in case they are needed at a later date.

CLICK ON IMAGE TO PRINT YOUR BODY MEASUREMENT CHART

Once you have all the measurements you need, you can compare and contrast them with the ones found on the back (usually) of the sewing pattern. For an example of this, see the size specification chart for the Gather Neck Tunic Dress below.

Now it's time to talk about ease. From the pattern's point of view, ease is the difference between the pattern's measurements and the studio's (or a company's) standard body measurements. Ease allows the wearer movement or rather ease of movement. For certain looks, ease may be minimal - particularly in very fitted garments. Indeed, in stretch garments, ease may be in the negative. However, from a customer's point of view, ease is the difference between the pattern's finished measurement (when all sewn up) and the customer's body measurement. This is important because ease requirements can differ considerably from client to client. A customer may be heavily influenced by how a garment shapes around their body, the style lines they see in the mirror, how flattering the garment looks and how much movement is required. Importantly, remember that less ease may be required if the garment or outfit is more about looking formal and ready to pose for a picture, rather than casually lounging around watching Netflix.

Most patterns have different amounts of ease. As implied earlier, it depends on the style of garment (pattern) and personal preference. For example, this 60s inspired tunic dress, which lends itself well to a simple urban style wedding creation has ease that some

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Gather Neck Tunic Dress | Vj Seamsters

Long/short sleeve gather neck tunic womens plus size easy sewing PDF 60s vintage inspired dress pattern with shoulder split roll collar. Just follow the simple instructions as if you were in a detailed online class and you will have a stylish 60s vintage inspired day dress which if made in a fabric which nods towards the evening would also make the ideal cocktail party dress. Sewing Skill Level: Advanced Beginners On downloading this pattern you will receive x3 files a) Pattern Pieces - to be printed then tiled togetherb) Tiled Grid - to help you assemble your pattern piecesc) Instructions - for making up your dress These files are best opened in Adobe Acrobat Reader (it's free via Google). Print out in either A4 or US Letter. Please see photo carousel for Spec, Sizing and Notions.Follow Face Book Link for instructions on how to assemble tiles to create pattern pieces. And to exchange 'make up' tips and tricks with other VJ Seamsters. Alternatively, follow YouTube Link for a step by step guide on assembling your PDF pattern pieces.

would consider high over the first 2 key areas of the bust (12 cm ease) and the waist (25 cm ease). The hips - slightly less so at 6.5 cm. As it is a tunic dress, its style dictates that it has a little room over the bust but goes straight down (not much shaping) over the waist - allowing for lots of ease. At the hips the ease is reduced to skim over the hips, which gives its wearer a little shape. Interestingly I was told by one of my brides "it's great for the likes of me with a bit of a post natal baby belly" due to the roomy waist.

So it's up to you to consider the style, shape, fit and ease. If you've taken your body measurements correctly then you can put your measurements in place of the studio standard body measurements and compare and contrast them with the finished garment measurements, which would give you an idea of the ease.

Size Specification Sheet for Gather Neck Tunic Dress

So let's say you have chosen the Gather Neck Tunic Dress to make as your wedding dress. Your Bust is 37" (94 cm), your Waist is 34" (86.25 cm) and your Hips 41" (104 cm). Ok so these measurements do not correspond with the Studio Standard Body Measurements (See Size Specification Sheet above). Indeed the Bust is in between the two sizes 12 and 14. Therefore after printing out the pattern, with a brightly coloured pen to hand, mark the seam line for the larger size: 14 - 38" (96.5 cm) Bust. Remember this will give you more ease than you require: an extra 2.5 cm, but you can reduce the size when fitting the garment and/or toile. Your Waist is 34" (86.25 cm) the standard studio size 16. From Bust draw out to size 16 of waist. And from size 16 at Waist draw in to size 14 of Hips: to accommodate the smaller hips of 41" - there will be slightly more ease than is required (remember the hips are between sizes - and you are choosing the larger size) for the style of dress but if there is too much ease it can be reduced when you make a toile and/or when you are fitting the garment. See diagram below: Drawing New Size Lines.

DRAWING NEW SIZE LINES

We've mentioned the word toile on numerous occasions in this Blog Post. A toile is the test version of a finished garment made up in fabric similar in character and weight to the finished garment but considerably cheaper in price. A toile will also enable you to fit and perfect the dress and its details before cutting out and stitching the real thing.

We suggest - with severity - that you make a toile of your wedding dress. It will add time to the design and decision making process but save time and money when making the actual garment because any problems or doubts you initially had will be smoothed out before the making up proper begins.

Take a look at this Post: Toile Making - 2nd Step to the perfect fit. It will help you realise just how important toile making for your wedding dress is and the tips and tricks required to get the best results.